Penitente Canyon - Rock Climbing !

   Penitente Canyon is a nationally known climbing area. 60-70 incredible sport climbing routes, camping, and easy access lend to its popularity. South facing routes can be climbed year round.
Adjacent to Penitente are two other climbing destinations - Witches Canyon and the Rock Garden. The Rock Garden is on private land, and thus should one's respect be redoubled in consideration to the family who allows all of us to tread upon soil that could be fenced off. - please check that access is open before climbing!

   The geologic history of the Penitente area is quite interesting. It began 33 million years ago, during an active period of explosive volcanic activity and large amounts of volcanic debris and ash were ejected. In parts of the San Luis Valley, the ash covered the land in depths up to 1,800 feet. Heat and pressure turned the ash into rock. This layer of rock eroded and cracked, rounding the rock edges, creating mystical shapes and hoo-doos which are also good hand-holds!
   

  Years ago, Penitente Canyon served as a place of worship for a small sect of the Catholic Church known as Los Hermanos Penitente. The Brothers Penitente, mostly Spanish men of deep faith and commitment, lived secluded from outside influences in the foothills and canyons of the Sangre de Cristo and San Juan Mountains. Living simply, they practiced their religion with a fervor few other sects could match.

This area is part of BLM's Penitente Canyon Special Recreation Management Area. Volunteers helped installed wood and rock vehicle barriers to designate parking areas, campsites, trails and the construction of a permanent restroom facility. Revegetation of fragile plants is underway on the trails that lead into the canyon.

Directions: take hwy 285 to the turn off for La Garita. Head West from the La Garita cash store <ETH> a great stop for breakfast, burgers and local flavor - and veer left just after the pavement ends. Turn right where the main road turns South and take the middle of the three roads. There should be a sign pointing you to the proper way. The rock garden is accessed by following paved road for another few miles. The canyon entrance is across from the owner's farmhouse. Witches canyon forks out to the south. To find any of these spots, a detailed map, local knowledge, following the few signs or a bit of faith will get you there!

(By the way, if you don't climb - there is also camping and mountain bike trails - you can't go wrong !)
- by Clyde L. Lovett